I went over there to get a $7 soldering iron so I could burn holes in the carpet of the driver’s side from undernetah in my Sprite so I could bolt the seat in finally.
Wound up spending $300 but it was worth it.
Every time I go there, I wind up wandering around looking for deals.
Yesterday that paid off.
A floor model, it was missing some bolts, the switch and the blade tension adjuster knob and rod That’s just a hunk of metric All Thread with a knob on the end.
.I don’t see the moveable vise jaw in that picture so I’ll have to look at it again and if I have to, I can buy a big metric nut and make one of those at work,
It’s not like materials will be hard to come by.
I went and grabbed a small plastic variety box with small nuts and bolts in it and had the kid there bolt the wheel axle back on so it would at least roll.
List price on the thing is $369.
I paid,
I couldn’t even buy the electric motor for that thing for that price.
I already have one but I flipped it over twice before I built a real stand for it and the motor has not been wanting to start without help lately.
I’ll swap the motor and belt cover off onto mine, then put mine on this one and fix whatever else is missing.
Then I’ll probably put it on Marketplace or something and get my money back.
Heck of a deal.
I also picked this up,
When I was down there about 3 weeks ago, they wanted $115 just for the charger and one battery so even if it doesn’t work I will get my monies worth.
The saw is still strapped down in the back of my truck so I have to get the little cherry picker out and wrestle it to the ground. Hopefully that goes without incident and then I can take my time swapping parts later. Right after that I am going to take the Sprite off the jack stands, wash the old whore and get it started. It’s been sitting for a while but I’m sure I’ll have it running in no time. Then I’m going to take it on a short test drive.
I’ve been pretty busy and my lower back is killing me from wrestling that damn seat in and out several times yesterday. The seats are too wide and I’m also going to be crammed into the thing but I’ll make it work. I just have to slam the door shut.
I’m not paying $2,000 for a new set of seats or $1500 to have the ones that were in it rebuilt.
Just the seat skin kits are over $700.
I could have put cheap racing seats in it but they would pound my lower back too hard.
I want to at least drive the thing a few times before Summer is over. Next will be replacing the windshield, again.
Be careful with that impact wrench. I have a 400 ft/lb wrench and I have come close to breaking my wrist a couple times with it.
Good buy on the saw. I have an old handheld that I have built a frame and added a coolant drip system. All put together from spare junk parts.
Bandsaw and impact wrench….excellent purchases. When are you going back for the soldering iron, or did the saw/wrench pincer attack upon the carpet succeed?
I grabbed the iron first, then went window shopping.
🤣
SCORE!
And I use an old soldering iron, too. Keeps those pesky carpet fibers from making a mess.
damn. now I feel old. I bought the same saw for 89 bucks way back when it was on sale. the motor died in 2005 or 6 and I put on a Baldor one I had laying around.
my buddy ran a scrapyard and saved good bits like that for me. I had close to about a dozen Baldor motors at one time. all of them USA made and worth every damn dime. make sure you get a good blade for it. check out Starrett as they really
work and last. put a brush in front of the return wheel and save yourself a few headaches in the long run.
back pain put me out of the sports car rebuilding game years ago. I like and rebuilt MGB-GTs as they always seem cool to me. had 4 of them over the years
now. one with a Olds 300 CI al engine in it. ended up swapping out the “wires”
for disc rims as the wires start to twist from the torque from the engine.
but it was a real blast to drive ! lost it in the divorce. bitch !!
Nothing subtle about an MGB-GT with an Olds aluminum smallblock in it. IIRC, they may hav com with a factory built one ? at some point towards the end…
The 6 in the C variant was supposed to be a horror
MGC where a nightmare for sure. lots of weight over the front threw
any handling out the window. drove one ONCE. where the Buick/Olds engine weigh less the the 4 banger it came with by 40 or more pounds. want to get my hands on a XKE rear end to finish it off. but never got the chance to do it.
yeah. they did come out with a V-8 version of the MGB-GT
in the 1970’s after a local over there was stuffing a land rover engine in them. Rover bought the rights to the engine in the mid 1960’s I believe it was. it was dropped over here as people didn’t trust the engine like they did the cast iron ones
( didn’t sell like they thought it would)
and the old 4 banger used by MG was a 1930’s Chevy truck engine. weird, right ?
> I couldn’t even buy the electric motor for that thing for that price.
I already have one but I flipped it over twice before I built a real stand for it and the motor has not been wanting to start without help lately.
—
Don’t let the saw stall, or it will burn out the start windings in the motor. I have to wrap a cord around the pulley on mine and start it like an old-time lawnmower.
First thing, take the cover off the gearbox and make sure it’s clean in there. A lot of them are full of swarf and the gears get eaten up. Every now and then, one is dry.
I never found any difference in the lifespan of expensive Starrett blades vs. the Harbor Freight blades. The failure is always by cracking. If you look at a broken blade, you’ll see dozens or hundreds of cracks that weren’t completely through yet. It’s not worth trying to braze one of those blades back together.
The blade guides at the front will probably need to be adjusted. Mine weren’t even close, from the factory.
The idler pulley axle on mine was dry. It didn’t make nearly as much noise after I greased it.
Seeing minor differences in the castings over the years, the saws might not all come from the same factory, though they seem to be intercheangeable. Quality control might vary by factory. On the bandsaw Yahoogroup there were guys who bought saws that were a lot worse than mine.
Man shoppin, I love it.
I hope your saw cuts straighter and blades last longer than the one I had back in the 70’s. The blades wore out after a few cuts and cut crooked after that. Found a power hacksaw and ran that for a number of years but it used up blades like they ere made of marshmallows. Finally got a good bandsaw with a 1″ wide blade but it wasn’t big enough so I sold it and bought the next bigger one and it still wasn’t big enough to cut 45 degrees on a 10″ tube so I got the biggest one Ellis makes. Blades last a long time and cut true.
If you find it on their website, you can find the manual with parts diagram. Then go to harborfreight.com/parts and with the sku (on tag on the machine), you can find the exact parts you need, cheap and free shipping. If in doubt, there’s a number you can call for help.