10 thoughts on “Are we going to put up with this?”
Yup. After spending 4-1/2 hours to remove the alternator (I had to drain the radiator first!?) on my ’09 I bought a ’77 Mercedes 280S with hand crank windows, a carburetor and 4 speed manual to replace it. My next vehicle purchase will be a ’70s pickup, preferably with a manual transmission.
Yeah, this is pure bullshit. This is one of the Many reasons new car sales are slowing down. $120K for a pickup or suv, and I can’t work on it? Fuck That. John Deere has the same thing, they can lock your tractor down and you can’t drive it. Time for some indians dumping fluids in front of the manufacturers, maybe??
Another reason I won’t buy a new(er) vehicle, or set foot in a dealership for a part. I’ve got an ’03 Tahoe, an ’03 Sub-bourbon, and an ’08 Silver-Rattle LTZ.
I can work on them all and I’m betting at least one of them will be running and drive able when I assume room temperature.
03 Jeep Grand Cherokee. 1989 Taurus SHO. 1985 Beaver motor Coach. Daughter has a ’13 Honda pilot. Other daughter’s hubby got a ’18 Jeep Wrangler.
No new cars for us. Even though I’ll need a tranny in the 03 Jeep, and my one daughter will need a new tranny in her Pilot, we will continue to hold on and keep fixing up The Good Ol’ Stuff.
I don’t need an Infotainment Center, I don’t need FSD, I don’t need a car that talks to the Interwebbies. Y’all can keep that crap away from m.
yeah. I regret selling my old 89 4runner more and more each day.
simple 22re engine and 5 speed. and I used to get pissed at the damn Fi system
wanted to switch back to a carb but was told not too.
and I just bought a 25 Nissan too. just last week, over 10 lights lit up on the dashboard. shit I never used or even tried to use. next week I got in to the damn dealer to get it checked out. but 2 days ago, the lights went out again.
traded in my 2016 4runner because of weird shit going on with it. only to find out later that it was something called a wheel speed senor or something like that.
and with less than 80,000 miles on it too ? my old 89 had just under 300,000 on it
I rebuilt the engine at 250,000. new clutch and all of the other bits as well.
just couldn’t find a “good body shop” around here. that why I sold it. some rust that needed work that I could handle anymore.
Yup, just had to face this to put in a new battery in my 2019 VW Tiguan.
Easy job, unbolt old battery terminals, unbolt the battery hold down, take out old, insert new, reverse process and you are done, right? Oh, and before you even start, have to hook up a CANbus/OBD machine and read the OLD battery details, manufacturer code, Model, Amperage and SERIAL NUMBER!
New battery in, on startup the entire dash lights up like a Christmas tree, all fault lights on.
Process – start car, turn steering wheel lock to lock twice and center the steering wheel, turn off the vehicle. Re start. If you put in an OEM VW battery (I paid about $80 above market for one), you have to have an VW Canbus/OBD reader/programmer, which I have (Chines junk), since this is my 9th VW.
Hook it up and now program in the NEW battery data, battery type, manufacturer code, model number, serial number and Ah capacity. Of course my CANbus/OBD device is 8 years old, so it would not work correctly on the 2019 Tiguan. Luckily the manufacturer somewhere in China, actually does issue updates to their firmware, took me 3 tries to download and install., bit of an Engrhish/Chinese issue with their tech consultants Finally got that done, then went in and re-programmed the Engine Control Module to recognize the new battery. Happy car, pissed off owner.
All of the above was 3 days (yes, 3 days) of farting around with computers, the physical battery replace took 10 minutes.
And you wonder why older cars are being snapped up for stupid money? There is your answer. I am keeping a 2005 VW diesel Passat, does not have any of this crap beyond needing the test device to verify critical temperatures when replacing the trans fluid (did that last year, so good for the next 60K miles – and yes, there is no trans dipstick on it either, this shit started creeping in long ago)..
At my advancing age, wrenching is not as easy as it used to be, let alone all the new crap layered on top. Keep the old rigs guys and gals, the new stuff is not worth the money. Seriously considering if I should buy a friends 1973 Ford F250 but it is 2 wheel drive, easier to work on but not so good in our snow. Sigh!
Oh fuck that in a turnup patch! Your computer doesn’t need to know what the model, amps, serial numbers and other BS, it is all about control. All that computer needs to know that battery is at 12.5V at rest and will take a charge of 13.5 to 14.5V. This why I don’t want or use a new friggen car or truck. My Chevy C3500 has two group 27 heavy duty batteries(two trays either side of the truck behind the radiator support)in parallel connected by 1 gauge and a new battery to starter lead at 2 gauge. I do not have to sync it the computer and I started in cold ass -40 degree South Dakota winters. They spins that starter like a top!
I bought a 2017 Tundra. Why not newer?
Because ’17 was the last year before the nanny shit. (automatic emergency braking)
I may NEED to drive through a vehicle that has stopped to rob/carjack me. Fuck the computer garbage! My truck doesn’t have a tranny dipstick. Bought a cheap OBD tool that reads trans temp on the Zon and service my own trans thank you very much. Piss on the newer models!
Yup. After spending 4-1/2 hours to remove the alternator (I had to drain the radiator first!?) on my ’09 I bought a ’77 Mercedes 280S with hand crank windows, a carburetor and 4 speed manual to replace it. My next vehicle purchase will be a ’70s pickup, preferably with a manual transmission.
^^^^
Yeah, this is pure bullshit. This is one of the Many reasons new car sales are slowing down. $120K for a pickup or suv, and I can’t work on it? Fuck That. John Deere has the same thing, they can lock your tractor down and you can’t drive it. Time for some indians dumping fluids in front of the manufacturers, maybe??
Another reason I won’t buy a new(er) vehicle, or set foot in a dealership for a part. I’ve got an ’03 Tahoe, an ’03 Sub-bourbon, and an ’08 Silver-Rattle LTZ.
I can work on them all and I’m betting at least one of them will be running and drive able when I assume room temperature.
03 Jeep Grand Cherokee. 1989 Taurus SHO. 1985 Beaver motor Coach. Daughter has a ’13 Honda pilot. Other daughter’s hubby got a ’18 Jeep Wrangler.
No new cars for us. Even though I’ll need a tranny in the 03 Jeep, and my one daughter will need a new tranny in her Pilot, we will continue to hold on and keep fixing up The Good Ol’ Stuff.
I don’t need an Infotainment Center, I don’t need FSD, I don’t need a car that talks to the Interwebbies. Y’all can keep that crap away from m.
yeah. I regret selling my old 89 4runner more and more each day.
simple 22re engine and 5 speed. and I used to get pissed at the damn Fi system
wanted to switch back to a carb but was told not too.
and I just bought a 25 Nissan too. just last week, over 10 lights lit up on the dashboard. shit I never used or even tried to use. next week I got in to the damn dealer to get it checked out. but 2 days ago, the lights went out again.
traded in my 2016 4runner because of weird shit going on with it. only to find out later that it was something called a wheel speed senor or something like that.
and with less than 80,000 miles on it too ? my old 89 had just under 300,000 on it
I rebuilt the engine at 250,000. new clutch and all of the other bits as well.
just couldn’t find a “good body shop” around here. that why I sold it. some rust that needed work that I could handle anymore.
Yup, just had to face this to put in a new battery in my 2019 VW Tiguan.
Easy job, unbolt old battery terminals, unbolt the battery hold down, take out old, insert new, reverse process and you are done, right? Oh, and before you even start, have to hook up a CANbus/OBD machine and read the OLD battery details, manufacturer code, Model, Amperage and SERIAL NUMBER!
New battery in, on startup the entire dash lights up like a Christmas tree, all fault lights on.
Process – start car, turn steering wheel lock to lock twice and center the steering wheel, turn off the vehicle. Re start. If you put in an OEM VW battery (I paid about $80 above market for one), you have to have an VW Canbus/OBD reader/programmer, which I have (Chines junk), since this is my 9th VW.
Hook it up and now program in the NEW battery data, battery type, manufacturer code, model number, serial number and Ah capacity. Of course my CANbus/OBD device is 8 years old, so it would not work correctly on the 2019 Tiguan. Luckily the manufacturer somewhere in China, actually does issue updates to their firmware, took me 3 tries to download and install., bit of an Engrhish/Chinese issue with their tech consultants Finally got that done, then went in and re-programmed the Engine Control Module to recognize the new battery. Happy car, pissed off owner.
All of the above was 3 days (yes, 3 days) of farting around with computers, the physical battery replace took 10 minutes.
And you wonder why older cars are being snapped up for stupid money? There is your answer. I am keeping a 2005 VW diesel Passat, does not have any of this crap beyond needing the test device to verify critical temperatures when replacing the trans fluid (did that last year, so good for the next 60K miles – and yes, there is no trans dipstick on it either, this shit started creeping in long ago)..
At my advancing age, wrenching is not as easy as it used to be, let alone all the new crap layered on top. Keep the old rigs guys and gals, the new stuff is not worth the money. Seriously considering if I should buy a friends 1973 Ford F250 but it is 2 wheel drive, easier to work on but not so good in our snow. Sigh!
Oh fuck that in a turnup patch! Your computer doesn’t need to know what the model, amps, serial numbers and other BS, it is all about control. All that computer needs to know that battery is at 12.5V at rest and will take a charge of 13.5 to 14.5V. This why I don’t want or use a new friggen car or truck. My Chevy C3500 has two group 27 heavy duty batteries(two trays either side of the truck behind the radiator support)in parallel connected by 1 gauge and a new battery to starter lead at 2 gauge. I do not have to sync it the computer and I started in cold ass -40 degree South Dakota winters. They spins that starter like a top!
I bought a 2017 Tundra. Why not newer?
Because ’17 was the last year before the nanny shit. (automatic emergency braking)
I may NEED to drive through a vehicle that has stopped to rob/carjack me. Fuck the computer garbage! My truck doesn’t have a tranny dipstick. Bought a cheap OBD tool that reads trans temp on the Zon and service my own trans thank you very much. Piss on the newer models!
Ain’t gonna buy that crap.