Always had a can. You have to reduce your torque if you use it I’ve been told.
Have used versions of Permatex copper no sieze on spark plugs and ball joints (the kind with the castle nut and cotter) for years. Saves a lot of work later. Not sure I would put it on anything critical that requires exact torque.
Not familiar with that brand but there are many out there.
The Herpes of the Mechanic World.
LMAO!
last time I check I had maybe 3-4 cans of it. and not the same brand either.
lots of people/firms made it. always used it on spark plugs. and lug nuts
even found a can of bronze powder. it was my dad’s I think ?
never really used for anything. but if you dip something into it, it came out looking
like it was gold plate or something. not sure what I am going to do with it ?
The Mil-Spec version of that is used extensively on Turbine Engines. Using the Petroleum-Graphite type in High-Temp situations causes Intergranular Corrosion and Cracking, particularly on Turbine (Hot Section) Cases. If this Lubricant is called for in a given Assembly, the Torque Specs take it into account. And it is Excellent to use in Automotive Applications where the Parts may not be replaced for several Years. In my experience, Brake Caliper Slides lubed with the Copper Stuff will never Seize and Jam the Pads.
Use it on the farm equipment all the time.
I use it (this brand) when mating a stainless bolt to a stainless nut– it prevents galling
If the connection galls– the only way to get it unseized is over torque (breaking the bolt), or cutting the connection
heat alone never works
Brother, you right about that. If the shit galls, you one fucked chicken. Ask my dumass how I know…
Really good if you using stainless bolts.
I’ve got several types – copper, nickel, and moly-disulfide.
Depends on what I’m doing.
Leigh
Whitehall, NY
Nickel antiseez will wash out on auto use. Like u-bolts but copper antiseez will stay. Don’t know why but that’s my experience. Used Nickel antiseez for years in the refinery. Worked good on high heat
I’ve got a big bottle of that same stuff, along with a can of “Jet Lube SS-30” which is copper-loaded that I use on outdoor ground connections.
It is amazing how this shit gets everywhere when you use it. I have some copper that is all over the place right now.
I use Loctite 767 which is mostly aluminium powder on all my wheel bolts and copper anti-seize on my brake calipers. The NGK spark plugs for my Mercedes have high quality plating so I install them dry.
Aircraft manuals specify both dry and lubed torque measurements in Ch 20, IIRC it’s about 20% less for bolts with anti-seize applied.
I’d be more interested in something that will work on my own frame. Osteoarthritis is a real bastard, as many of the readers here know well.
Works well to lube the area of your part running against the steady rest of your lathe.
I’ve got the Grey plastic bottle with what I believe to be zinc based anti seize in it. It makes things so much easier to disassemble even years later. A very light smear is all I use on spark plugs to help prevent corrosion of aluminum from adhering to the steel. Perhaps not so much of a problem on cars but without it on my walk behind mower plugs I don’t know if the plugs aren’t coated or what happens but that the aluminum block threads stick to the plug.
Mechanics gotta have it.
Bustednuckles, I appreciate your web content.
Good stuff Maynard
Never-Seez was a must when I was maintaining thermal deburring machines at the shop.
There was a daycare here in town and I once thought to toss a can of nickel and a can of copper over the fence with the lids lose. You can eat that stuff and it won’t hurt you but you get a little on your toe and a couple seconds later you got it in your hair. Would of had to take them kids to the car wash to get them clean And you can paint a barn with a can of it
Bostic neverseez was the ONLY compound that worked in lithium bromide applications like absorption chillers ŵhen overhauls might be 5years apart. Just leaving a crescent wrench with libr solution on it over nite , it would become inoperable scrap….never mind your work boots….
Wow, this is cool. I never dreamed Never Sneeze would be such a popular topic of discussion or that there were so many people that used and believed in the stuff.
Where were you all when I was wrenching? Judging by the number of times I took something apart that showed evidence of it being put together with the stuff I would have guessed there weren’t very many guys who used it.
Another neat thing my mentor George got me in the habit of doing was to use Cat cement on one side of a gasket and Never Sneeze on the other. This works great on cork gaskets (oil pan) and is especially handy-dandy on valve cover gaskets, where a guy is apt to be taking the cover on and off to do regular valve adjustments. It allowed me to ‘run the rack’ regularly on the small cam Cummins in my old KW. It made those gaskets last a long time and still look like new.
I love you, George. I think of you whenever I see a can of Never Sneeze.
An absolute must for stainless nuts and bolts. A little goes a looooong way. A little on the underside of a vehicle door handle.
Too bad the screw cap won’t come off without a pipe wrench 🙂
Is it similar to coppergrease?
Probably the exact same thing.
Always had a can. You have to reduce your torque if you use it I’ve been told.
Have used versions of Permatex copper no sieze on spark plugs and ball joints (the kind with the castle nut and cotter) for years. Saves a lot of work later. Not sure I would put it on anything critical that requires exact torque.
Not familiar with that brand but there are many out there.
The Herpes of the Mechanic World.
LMAO!
last time I check I had maybe 3-4 cans of it. and not the same brand either.
lots of people/firms made it. always used it on spark plugs. and lug nuts
even found a can of bronze powder. it was my dad’s I think ?
never really used for anything. but if you dip something into it, it came out looking
like it was gold plate or something. not sure what I am going to do with it ?
The Mil-Spec version of that is used extensively on Turbine Engines. Using the Petroleum-Graphite type in High-Temp situations causes Intergranular Corrosion and Cracking, particularly on Turbine (Hot Section) Cases. If this Lubricant is called for in a given Assembly, the Torque Specs take it into account. And it is Excellent to use in Automotive Applications where the Parts may not be replaced for several Years. In my experience, Brake Caliper Slides lubed with the Copper Stuff will never Seize and Jam the Pads.
Use it on the farm equipment all the time.
I use it (this brand) when mating a stainless bolt to a stainless nut– it prevents galling
If the connection galls– the only way to get it unseized is over torque (breaking the bolt), or cutting the connection
heat alone never works
Brother, you right about that. If the shit galls, you one fucked chicken. Ask my dumass how I know…
Really good if you using stainless bolts.
I’ve got several types – copper, nickel, and moly-disulfide.
Depends on what I’m doing.
Leigh
Whitehall, NY
Nickel antiseez will wash out on auto use. Like u-bolts but copper antiseez will stay. Don’t know why but that’s my experience. Used Nickel antiseez for years in the refinery. Worked good on high heat
I’ve got a big bottle of that same stuff, along with a can of “Jet Lube SS-30” which is copper-loaded that I use on outdoor ground connections.
It is amazing how this shit gets everywhere when you use it. I have some copper that is all over the place right now.
I use Loctite 767 which is mostly aluminium powder on all my wheel bolts and copper anti-seize on my brake calipers. The NGK spark plugs for my Mercedes have high quality plating so I install them dry.
Aircraft manuals specify both dry and lubed torque measurements in Ch 20, IIRC it’s about 20% less for bolts with anti-seize applied.
I’d be more interested in something that will work on my own frame. Osteoarthritis is a real bastard, as many of the readers here know well.
Works well to lube the area of your part running against the steady rest of your lathe.
I’ve got the Grey plastic bottle with what I believe to be zinc based anti seize in it. It makes things so much easier to disassemble even years later. A very light smear is all I use on spark plugs to help prevent corrosion of aluminum from adhering to the steel. Perhaps not so much of a problem on cars but without it on my walk behind mower plugs I don’t know if the plugs aren’t coated or what happens but that the aluminum block threads stick to the plug.
Mechanics gotta have it.
Bustednuckles, I appreciate your web content.
Good stuff Maynard
Never-Seez was a must when I was maintaining thermal deburring machines at the shop.
There was a daycare here in town and I once thought to toss a can of nickel and a can of copper over the fence with the lids lose. You can eat that stuff and it won’t hurt you but you get a little on your toe and a couple seconds later you got it in your hair. Would of had to take them kids to the car wash to get them clean And you can paint a barn with a can of it
Related: https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiojFJfErZFuJOONv5hXX8cCBMeiRsj702odqQFweZARY32NvXp9tupMglLablOvlaIDGMy3mvYLzdpzkoiO-2-AKzhiwGChZw18oiM5h73PsfM0fciBnVI4AaP1gp2jNmHlodjWPBpBrmiBJj3mhEMSV-U69LK1623O2stdG7KFG1PFIzOWddUr00owDva/s661/213.jpeg
Bostic neverseez was the ONLY compound that worked in lithium bromide applications like absorption chillers ŵhen overhauls might be 5years apart. Just leaving a crescent wrench with libr solution on it over nite , it would become inoperable scrap….never mind your work boots….
Wow, this is cool. I never dreamed Never Sneeze would be such a popular topic of discussion or that there were so many people that used and believed in the stuff.
Where were you all when I was wrenching? Judging by the number of times I took something apart that showed evidence of it being put together with the stuff I would have guessed there weren’t very many guys who used it.
Another neat thing my mentor George got me in the habit of doing was to use Cat cement on one side of a gasket and Never Sneeze on the other. This works great on cork gaskets (oil pan) and is especially handy-dandy on valve cover gaskets, where a guy is apt to be taking the cover on and off to do regular valve adjustments. It allowed me to ‘run the rack’ regularly on the small cam Cummins in my old KW. It made those gaskets last a long time and still look like new.
I love you, George. I think of you whenever I see a can of Never Sneeze.
An absolute must for stainless nuts and bolts. A little goes a looooong way. A little on the underside of a vehicle door handle.
Too bad the screw cap won’t come off without a pipe wrench 🙂