11 thoughts on “Remember when you had men behind the counter who knew cars?”
And when I was about sixteen buying parts for my ’50 Studebaker, the counter guy would say, “Do you do your own work?” and give me the professional discount.
Imagine you drive a Baja bug. 1973 Beetle pan, Kharmann Ghia rotors, Thing spindles, Squareback calipers and master cylinder and rear brakes. 2165 ( 94 X. 80 ) engine
“What year of car is it going in?” and the fun begins.
Me: “I need to get a set of U- joints for a ’04 Jeep Rubicon”
Pimple face behind the counter : ” Does that have air conditioning?”
Me : “See Ya”
98% of the people behind the parts store counters are pretty much worthless. They don’t have a clue other than whatever their computer tells them, and that’s only if they punched the info in correctly. I research online and get the actual part numbers. I then order the parts online for a lot less money unless it’s something I have to get immediately. If I need it NOW, I print out the page from their website with the full info and take that with me to give them.
I could look the info up faster in the old paper parts catalogs faster than these morons can punch it into their computer. AND be more accurate.
I do a lot of that, and it does save time – effort – energy – confusion.
I do the same with any appliance parts, I look online for the IPB and get the exact part number and order from my local parts dealer (who REALLY appreciates my efforts, BTW) and I get a lot of respect from them.
For electronics parts: Mouser Electronics. Can’t be beat.
Even when they know what you’re talking about, I still try to take the dead/broken part with me, lay it on the counter and say “Can you match this?”
Always, always, ALWAYS a good idea, *if* you can bring the part with you. Check for form factor, size, orientation, etc.
I can tell you’ve been around the block a time or two…
And check the part they bring you before you leave the store.
Recently, I bought two brake rotors for my ’03 Suburban. Got them home, and one of them had six lug holes, one had five.
my brother could listen to the car for a minute & tell you exactly what was wrong with it & get it right 98% of the time. i miss that ol’ sob
Just guessing that this is 1930’s vintage
Had the water pump spring a leak on a generator at an AM radio site.
Chevy 350 engine (with ‘RV Cam’ so it ran at 1800 rpm).
Took the old pump to the local NAPA and told the kid behind the counter I needed to talk to the oldest person working there.
He took one look, went in the back and came out with an exact match.
And when I was about sixteen buying parts for my ’50 Studebaker, the counter guy would say, “Do you do your own work?” and give me the professional discount.
Imagine you drive a Baja bug. 1973 Beetle pan, Kharmann Ghia rotors, Thing spindles, Squareback calipers and master cylinder and rear brakes. 2165 ( 94 X. 80 ) engine
“What year of car is it going in?” and the fun begins.
Me: “I need to get a set of U- joints for a ’04 Jeep Rubicon”
Pimple face behind the counter : ” Does that have air conditioning?”
Me : “See Ya”
98% of the people behind the parts store counters are pretty much worthless. They don’t have a clue other than whatever their computer tells them, and that’s only if they punched the info in correctly. I research online and get the actual part numbers. I then order the parts online for a lot less money unless it’s something I have to get immediately. If I need it NOW, I print out the page from their website with the full info and take that with me to give them.
I could look the info up faster in the old paper parts catalogs faster than these morons can punch it into their computer. AND be more accurate.
I do a lot of that, and it does save time – effort – energy – confusion.
I do the same with any appliance parts, I look online for the IPB and get the exact part number and order from my local parts dealer (who REALLY appreciates my efforts, BTW) and I get a lot of respect from them.
For electronics parts: Mouser Electronics. Can’t be beat.
Even when they know what you’re talking about, I still try to take the dead/broken part with me, lay it on the counter and say “Can you match this?”
Always, always, ALWAYS a good idea, *if* you can bring the part with you. Check for form factor, size, orientation, etc.
I can tell you’ve been around the block a time or two…
And check the part they bring you before you leave the store.
Recently, I bought two brake rotors for my ’03 Suburban. Got them home, and one of them had six lug holes, one had five.
my brother could listen to the car for a minute & tell you exactly what was wrong with it & get it right 98% of the time. i miss that ol’ sob
Just guessing that this is 1930’s vintage
Had the water pump spring a leak on a generator at an AM radio site.
Chevy 350 engine (with ‘RV Cam’ so it ran at 1800 rpm).
Took the old pump to the local NAPA and told the kid behind the counter I needed to talk to the oldest person working there.
He took one look, went in the back and came out with an exact match.