Has to be a Sprite oil pan bolt, it is commie metric.
25 thoughts on “Reader PB, A question for Phil..”
15 foot pounds. Or 137 metric tons.
Zip, you win the innerwebz comment of the day
The proper spec is TFAR (that feels about right), with sensitive wrist pressure, learned the hard way.
Tighten till you hear a squeak. Of course I told my brother that and he broke a head bolt. So that might be incorrect.
This’ll happen on marine engines. The oil pans sit low in the bilge and are exposed to high humidity/salt almost 100% of the time. The pan on my boat rusted through in several places due to condensation on the metal above the oil level, resulting in a “mysterious” oil leak that would land oil in the bilge. Sometimes there would be oil there after using the boat. Sometimes there wasn’t. I realized the times when there was oil in the bilge was after using the boat in rough water. The oil pan was almost inaccessible, but access it I did, and found traces of oil running down the side of the pan. The oil was leaking out as it sloshed around in the pan in rough seas. With great difficulty I removed the pan. Holding it up to the sun, I saw daylight through SEVERAL rust-throughs in the pan. A replacement was unavailable, so I had to braze the holes shut.
…So… Easy on the drain plug torque if you can even get at it, and if you every see oil in your bilge, read above…
I’ve changed the oil on 1000s of marine engines & never have I taken a drain plug out, suck the oil right out the dipstick tube with a pump.
I did the same thing. You pretty much CAN’T reach the drain plug on an inboard engine! I was pretty much talking about the rusting through aspect of it.
It really depends on whether you plan to sell it before the next oil change. But the TFAR scale has always been my go-to.
My guess is that the last oil change was at walmart.
looks like the job was done by some moron with a NEW impact gun.
you know the type, he has to use it on everything !
last time I bought new tires, I was amazed to see the guy using a torque wrench to final tighten the bolts. slipped him a 10 spot and told to get a cold beer on the way home. really, he did a great job of it. he even cleaned and lubed the lugs before putting the tire/rim back on. someone showed him the right way to do it anyway.
Local tire place crossthreaded one on my wife’s car, and powered it home. All the others were random torqued and …..
They offered me $100 off next set of tires…..still wont go back.
I figure that old Sprite is BS or Witworth.
See my reply below.
Tighten until it shears then back off half a turn!
Also, did you know that if you tighten a Land Rover diff level plug with a rattle gun you quickly learn how to dismantle the diff to retrieve it. How was I to know it was a taper thread in thin steel?
Because “Land Rover” is Olde English for “Thin Steel.”
Tight, not real fucking tight.
German torque spec:
Guten Tight
Tighten until the seal squirts out the side and then 1/4 turn further.
And as for you CederQ, there ain’t a metric bolt or nut on that fucking Sprite.
98% of the fasteners are Fine thread Standard.
You could take almost the whole car apart with a 7/16ths, 1/2 and a 9/16ths socket or wrench plus a couple of screwdrivers and some pliers.
I knewed that from you telling me before it had fine thread standard(I was gobsmacked it used fine thread), I was flipping you some shit…
Still have the BSW/BSF wrench and socket sets for working on Hawker-Siddeley 748s with Rolls-Royce Dart engines. BSF are just a little coarser ie 5/16-22 BSF versus 5/16-24 UNF so you can just get the nut started before it tightens up…..
After WWII because British manufacturers were pursuing the American market (half of Jaguars made in the ’50s were sold in the USA) they converted to UNF/UNC.
I miss the days when I could do 90% of the car maintenance with just a 7/16ths, 1/2, and 9/16ths. It might take 3 different extensions and 2 u-joints between the ratchet and the socket, but I only needed those 3 sizes. Of course I also needed those three sizes in deep set too. And a box end wrench in those 3 sizes to hold back-up, except for the 2 or 3 places that were so tight that I had to use an open end that had been ground down a little. Or the one fricking wrench I ground down to a knub and spot welded to the nut. Shit, where was I going with this?
Das ist eine gut deutcher bolt, it vas stronker than ze automobile.
Ape Shit tight is the torque you’re looking for. Plus a quarter turn after the seal squirts out. Heh heh…
Okay, the seal is seated. Now back it off one flat.
I hand tighten it and then thump the wrench ONCE with the palm of my hand. Never had a leak or a problem.
15 foot pounds. Or 137 metric tons.
Zip, you win the innerwebz comment of the day
The proper spec is TFAR (that feels about right), with sensitive wrist pressure, learned the hard way.
Tighten till you hear a squeak. Of course I told my brother that and he broke a head bolt. So that might be incorrect.
This’ll happen on marine engines. The oil pans sit low in the bilge and are exposed to high humidity/salt almost 100% of the time. The pan on my boat rusted through in several places due to condensation on the metal above the oil level, resulting in a “mysterious” oil leak that would land oil in the bilge. Sometimes there would be oil there after using the boat. Sometimes there wasn’t. I realized the times when there was oil in the bilge was after using the boat in rough water. The oil pan was almost inaccessible, but access it I did, and found traces of oil running down the side of the pan. The oil was leaking out as it sloshed around in the pan in rough seas. With great difficulty I removed the pan. Holding it up to the sun, I saw daylight through SEVERAL rust-throughs in the pan. A replacement was unavailable, so I had to braze the holes shut.
…So… Easy on the drain plug torque if you can even get at it, and if you every see oil in your bilge, read above…
I’ve changed the oil on 1000s of marine engines & never have I taken a drain plug out, suck the oil right out the dipstick tube with a pump.
I did the same thing. You pretty much CAN’T reach the drain plug on an inboard engine! I was pretty much talking about the rusting through aspect of it.
It really depends on whether you plan to sell it before the next oil change. But the TFAR scale has always been my go-to.
My guess is that the last oil change was at walmart.
looks like the job was done by some moron with a NEW impact gun.
you know the type, he has to use it on everything !
last time I bought new tires, I was amazed to see the guy using a torque wrench to final tighten the bolts. slipped him a 10 spot and told to get a cold beer on the way home. really, he did a great job of it. he even cleaned and lubed the lugs before putting the tire/rim back on. someone showed him the right way to do it anyway.
Local tire place crossthreaded one on my wife’s car, and powered it home. All the others were random torqued and …..
They offered me $100 off next set of tires…..still wont go back.
I figure that old Sprite is BS or Witworth.
See my reply below.
Tighten until it shears then back off half a turn!
Also, did you know that if you tighten a Land Rover diff level plug with a rattle gun you quickly learn how to dismantle the diff to retrieve it. How was I to know it was a taper thread in thin steel?
Because “Land Rover” is Olde English for “Thin Steel.”
Tight, not real fucking tight.
German torque spec:
Guten Tight
Tighten until the seal squirts out the side and then 1/4 turn further.
And as for you CederQ, there ain’t a metric bolt or nut on that fucking Sprite.
98% of the fasteners are Fine thread Standard.
You could take almost the whole car apart with a 7/16ths, 1/2 and a 9/16ths socket or wrench plus a couple of screwdrivers and some pliers.
I knewed that from you telling me before it had fine thread standard(I was gobsmacked it used fine thread), I was flipping you some shit…
Still have the BSW/BSF wrench and socket sets for working on Hawker-Siddeley 748s with Rolls-Royce Dart engines. BSF are just a little coarser ie 5/16-22 BSF versus 5/16-24 UNF so you can just get the nut started before it tightens up…..
After WWII because British manufacturers were pursuing the American market (half of Jaguars made in the ’50s were sold in the USA) they converted to UNF/UNC.
I miss the days when I could do 90% of the car maintenance with just a 7/16ths, 1/2, and 9/16ths. It might take 3 different extensions and 2 u-joints between the ratchet and the socket, but I only needed those 3 sizes. Of course I also needed those three sizes in deep set too. And a box end wrench in those 3 sizes to hold back-up, except for the 2 or 3 places that were so tight that I had to use an open end that had been ground down a little. Or the one fricking wrench I ground down to a knub and spot welded to the nut. Shit, where was I going with this?
Das ist eine gut deutcher bolt, it vas stronker than ze automobile.
Ape Shit tight is the torque you’re looking for. Plus a quarter turn after the seal squirts out. Heh heh…
Okay, the seal is seated. Now back it off one flat.
I hand tighten it and then thump the wrench ONCE with the palm of my hand. Never had a leak or a problem.