11 thoughts on “Phil, I am sure they make these for Chevys! Get your’s today! Get to work sooner!”
Ain’t real, the front end doesn’t look to be carrying a load. You can get better coverage with formed steel or alloy metalwork with side support over the mudguards/fenders. That rail could do as a cheap base, somewhere to mount the vice, and provide a work surface for hammering parts into shape for running repairs.
How would you know about American Steel ya Aussie?
Ah, pretty easy, you can tell if it is genuine made-in-USA vehicle by the way bits fall off of them as you drive down the road. No, not a snarky comment, but reality.
I’ll have you know I haven’t had a part fall in heck a lot of months now…
Back in the day, my Dad was a route salesman for a local company. His company car was always a Chevy pickup. The last two was a ’63 and a ’65.
He didn’t like the way it rode or the “rake” it had, so his solution was a chunk of railroad welded between the frame rails at the extreme rear of the frame because there was no such thing as “specialty” springs in those days.
That there is probably 180 lbs of rail if about 5 ft wide. Certainly will improve front traction with the added benefit of keeping idiots away. If I had an old 3 ton truck, it would certainly be an option.
TWAAT: Two wheel attitude adjusting tool. Deluxe model is 3 feet wider.
A BULLBAR in OVAL STAINLESS steel will work fine. It bolts directly into the pull hook mounts. On a Chevy 2500 HD there 4 or 5 radiators, coolers in front. They are DAMNED high dollar when smacked.
Ramming speed…
I use a short piece for an anvil. Damn thats gotta kill your fuel economy.
A lifetime ago I owned a 79 W100 Dodge Power Wagon truck with the 360 V8, long bed with dual fuel tanks. Removed the front bumper, extended the frame rails 12″ using rail road ties and welded a mondo piece of channel iron across the front. Put a steel plate across and mounted a Warn 8K winch to it and then added à brush guard. Made for the meanest looking front end. Back when trucks were simple and easy to modify.
Ain’t real, the front end doesn’t look to be carrying a load. You can get better coverage with formed steel or alloy metalwork with side support over the mudguards/fenders. That rail could do as a cheap base, somewhere to mount the vice, and provide a work surface for hammering parts into shape for running repairs.
How would you know about American Steel ya Aussie?
Ah, pretty easy, you can tell if it is genuine made-in-USA vehicle by the way bits fall off of them as you drive down the road. No, not a snarky comment, but reality.
I’ll have you know I haven’t had a part fall in heck a lot of months now…
Back in the day, my Dad was a route salesman for a local company. His company car was always a Chevy pickup. The last two was a ’63 and a ’65.
He didn’t like the way it rode or the “rake” it had, so his solution was a chunk of railroad welded between the frame rails at the extreme rear of the frame because there was no such thing as “specialty” springs in those days.
That there is probably 180 lbs of rail if about 5 ft wide. Certainly will improve front traction with the added benefit of keeping idiots away. If I had an old 3 ton truck, it would certainly be an option.
TWAAT: Two wheel attitude adjusting tool. Deluxe model is 3 feet wider.
A BULLBAR in OVAL STAINLESS steel will work fine. It bolts directly into the pull hook mounts. On a Chevy 2500 HD there 4 or 5 radiators, coolers in front. They are DAMNED high dollar when smacked.
Ramming speed…
I use a short piece for an anvil. Damn thats gotta kill your fuel economy.
A lifetime ago I owned a 79 W100 Dodge Power Wagon truck with the 360 V8, long bed with dual fuel tanks. Removed the front bumper, extended the frame rails 12″ using rail road ties and welded a mondo piece of channel iron across the front. Put a steel plate across and mounted a Warn 8K winch to it and then added à brush guard. Made for the meanest looking front end. Back when trucks were simple and easy to modify.