7 thoughts on “Killdozer II, the upgrade. Remove the flag for instructions.”
I wonder, Cederq.
I saw footage of a tank in Iraq years ago. It was one of the big ones travelling in a convoy when it hit an IED. That damned bomb was so powerful, it lifted that 60 ton monster 10~15 feet in the air and killed 4 Humvees behind it.
It just seems to me you can’t pile on enough armour…if someone wants to take you out…somewhere there’s going to be a bomb big enough to do it…
That’s fine if you have access to military grade bullet-proof glass and a portion of the IDF budget. I would opt for multiple redundant cameras outside feeding video screens inside.
Nowadays you could control the whole thing remotely from a laptop.
The 50 Cal on top needs to be remotely controlled. A couple of rocket pod clusters is also needed.
Palestinian Shanty Removal tool, Mk II.
Flag tells you a lot. The drive train is exposed so won’t last long.
Heat duct “wire” (the small wire inside ducts i.e. dryer vent, etc.) is a final drive killer I am here to tell you. My family has been in the landfill business since 1982 (C&D only) and I cannot tell you how much money this tiny wire has indirectly cost us. The wire gets wrapped around the the drives that power the tracks. It doesn’t take long for the wire to eat into the rubber seals draining the lubricating oil. There is not a warning light and the dozer will run for a while “dry” Usually, you can hear it before you feel it. Then, it is too late. We have tried many different things from buying the “loggers package” to wielding homemade cutters onto the bottom of the machine. If anyone has any proven recommendations, I am all ears. LOL
Remember, Kiddies, the Flammenwerfer stops ANY Armored Vehicle, even Tanks. Get Burning Fuel anywhere near the Air Intake, and a Diesel (or Gas-Turbine, like in the M-1A) will Overspeed and Blow Up, even if the Driver “Turns it Off with the Switch” Why? Neither type of Engine has “Ignition” (a Turbine needs Spark to Start, not to Run) and as long as it gets Fuel, if it’s Running, it will keep doing so.
I wonder, Cederq.
I saw footage of a tank in Iraq years ago. It was one of the big ones travelling in a convoy when it hit an IED. That damned bomb was so powerful, it lifted that 60 ton monster 10~15 feet in the air and killed 4 Humvees behind it.
It just seems to me you can’t pile on enough armour…if someone wants to take you out…somewhere there’s going to be a bomb big enough to do it…
That’s fine if you have access to military grade bullet-proof glass and a portion of the IDF budget. I would opt for multiple redundant cameras outside feeding video screens inside.
Nowadays you could control the whole thing remotely from a laptop.
The 50 Cal on top needs to be remotely controlled. A couple of rocket pod clusters is also needed.
Palestinian Shanty Removal tool, Mk II.
Flag tells you a lot. The drive train is exposed so won’t last long.
Heat duct “wire” (the small wire inside ducts i.e. dryer vent, etc.) is a final drive killer I am here to tell you. My family has been in the landfill business since 1982 (C&D only) and I cannot tell you how much money this tiny wire has indirectly cost us. The wire gets wrapped around the the drives that power the tracks. It doesn’t take long for the wire to eat into the rubber seals draining the lubricating oil. There is not a warning light and the dozer will run for a while “dry” Usually, you can hear it before you feel it. Then, it is too late. We have tried many different things from buying the “loggers package” to wielding homemade cutters onto the bottom of the machine. If anyone has any proven recommendations, I am all ears. LOL
Remember, Kiddies, the Flammenwerfer stops ANY Armored Vehicle, even Tanks. Get Burning Fuel anywhere near the Air Intake, and a Diesel (or Gas-Turbine, like in the M-1A) will Overspeed and Blow Up, even if the Driver “Turns it Off with the Switch” Why? Neither type of Engine has “Ignition” (a Turbine needs Spark to Start, not to Run) and as long as it gets Fuel, if it’s Running, it will keep doing so.