You, me and everyone else here. Never thought of that.
I remember having to rote around to get a needle nose plyers to pull those damn things. I had the means in my scrubby little hands all this time! More than fuck’s sake! I never remembered being told that in auto shop class in high school.
Most of the fuse panels in vehicles ive had have the little plastic pinchers that you can pull out and use to grab the fuse in question. Ford trucks and cars,subarus…
I knew this trick, but then again I still own 4 vehicles made between 1988 and 1991, all of which use these standard form factor blade fuses. Newer vehicles use the mini blade fuses. The shittiest I’ve seen were in a newer Toyota I was helping troubleshoot, they looked like mini blade fuses outwardly, but were female (had recessed terminals inside the plastic fuse housing) with the “male” contacts recessed in the fuse block. WTF is that all about? Needless to say, had no spares on hand to fit it.
I like my Toyotas but sometimes their ideas just make me scratch my head.
No shit. Dammit all.
Son.
Of.
A.
Bitch.
WIsh I’d known that in the 1980s…
And to think I have been busting my fingernails and cursing a blue streak about fuses for the last 30 years ++. Fuckers might have wanted to advertise the feature.
Conclusion? Fuse manufacturers are wankers the world over.
Remember the little ceramic double pointed darts with metal ribbon held in by spit on all the Kraut machines in the 50’s, 60’s and 70’s? The ones that would quit working at every bump in the road or would hairline crack only you could not see the break? Wankers all of em.
Yep, fuck’s sake. I have at least 3 of those plastic fuse puller things, but I know where only one of them is, and used to use fingers or a needle-nose if it was handy.
I wonder whether it works with M-case and J-case fuses.
Mother fu….
He got to be related to Filthie somehow or another. Eh?
Not only that, but do you see the two contact points on the top of the fuse?
Use either a voltmeter or make a 12v bulb with two straight pins to make contact with those two points – if the fuse is blown the light will light up or you’ll get 12v on the meter. Easy to troubleshoot when looking for a blown fuse. A point to note is that it won’t hurt the circuit whatsoever, the most current through the blown fuse will be about 20 to 50 milliamps depending on the bulb’s wattage.
You, me and everyone else here. Never thought of that.
I remember having to rote around to get a needle nose plyers to pull those damn things. I had the means in my scrubby little hands all this time! More than fuck’s sake! I never remembered being told that in auto shop class in high school.
Most of the fuse panels in vehicles ive had have the little plastic pinchers that you can pull out and use to grab the fuse in question. Ford trucks and cars,subarus…
I knew this trick, but then again I still own 4 vehicles made between 1988 and 1991, all of which use these standard form factor blade fuses. Newer vehicles use the mini blade fuses. The shittiest I’ve seen were in a newer Toyota I was helping troubleshoot, they looked like mini blade fuses outwardly, but were female (had recessed terminals inside the plastic fuse housing) with the “male” contacts recessed in the fuse block. WTF is that all about? Needless to say, had no spares on hand to fit it.
I like my Toyotas but sometimes their ideas just make me scratch my head.
No shit. Dammit all.
Son.
Of.
A.
Bitch.
WIsh I’d known that in the 1980s…
And to think I have been busting my fingernails and cursing a blue streak about fuses for the last 30 years ++. Fuckers might have wanted to advertise the feature.
Conclusion? Fuse manufacturers are wankers the world over.
Remember the little ceramic double pointed darts with metal ribbon held in by spit on all the Kraut machines in the 50’s, 60’s and 70’s? The ones that would quit working at every bump in the road or would hairline crack only you could not see the break? Wankers all of em.
Yep, fuck’s sake. I have at least 3 of those plastic fuse puller things, but I know where only one of them is, and used to use fingers or a needle-nose if it was handy.
I wonder whether it works with M-case and J-case fuses.
Mother fu….
He got to be related to Filthie somehow or another. Eh?
Not only that, but do you see the two contact points on the top of the fuse?
Use either a voltmeter or make a 12v bulb with two straight pins to make contact with those two points – if the fuse is blown the light will light up or you’ll get 12v on the meter. Easy to troubleshoot when looking for a blown fuse. A point to note is that it won’t hurt the circuit whatsoever, the most current through the blown fuse will be about 20 to 50 milliamps depending on the bulb’s wattage.
Just try to find out WHY the fuse blew before putting in another one of the same rating! See:the Fool’s Guide to Fuse replacement:
https://memeguy.com/photo/221878/guide-to-fuse-replacement
for more details.
Screw that, bigger fuse
Those were the best. I’d steal the box out of the junkers and use them in my sixties cars. I did buy some duck-billed pliers.