Vox Popoli, https://www.voxday.net./
I never intend to buy a post-2010 car again.
Thousands of Porsche vehicles across Russia automatically shut down. The cars lock up and engines won’t start due to possible satellite interference. Many speculate the German company is carrying out an act of sabotage on EU orders. No official comments yet.
Any modern car can do this. I’d rather have a 1980 Ford Escort or Honda Civic than a new high-end Mercedes or Acura at this point. What is the point of having a vehicle when your transportation ability can be removed, and will be eliminated when you need it most?
Posted on by VD
Bang on. Newest vehicle in my fleet presently is a 1995. OBD-I, exempt from emissions testing, and while it does have a lot of electronic complexity, I know how to troubleshoot and work on it.
But, it is getting hard to find parts of any actual quality. Factory stuff is pretty well gone now, and the aftermarket stuff sucks unless I find NOS from 15-20+ years ago that I can buy. eBay and Rock Auto closeouts have helped a lot, since I’ve snagged a lot of deals on older NOS parts that were still made in the US or Japan (for things like sensors especially). Parts made in China or Mexico are mostly shit, even if they are packaged and sold by (formerly) reputable brands like Delco. Standard, etc.
But the fact remains it will be difficult to keep these old cars going beyond a certain point, without a lot of ingenuity and the ability to make certain parts ones self (via having access to machining tools, or enough money to get things done custom).
Know what you mean. I’ve got an ’03 Tahoe, an ’03 Suburban and an ’08 Silver-Rattle LTZ.
They will go anywhere a brand-new one will.
This gimp leg of mine put an end to my trips to the salvage yard, so I’m using the FleaBay OEM pulls. I figure I can keep at least one of the 3 running and roadworthy for as long as I need a vehicle.
I also keep more than one of the same make/model/year range of a particular vehicle. This aids in ease of service (if I know one car, I know all 4), negates the need for multiple sets of specialty tools to cover different vehicles, and makes for my own mini salvage yard here, if I have to purloin a critical part from one to temporarily keep another going.
Even the “odd one out” (the 95) shares enough in common with the other four older ones that working on it is comparatively easy, versus having to deal with a completely different platform.
Will buy a refurb from one of the auctions next time.
My “new” car is a 2006 ford police interceptor .I bought it over 10 years ago. It now has just under 100k on the odometer.
It will be the last car that I ever buy, except for maybe an old ford pick-up with a real bed.
I’m on the hunt for an older (2001-back, preferably mid 90’s) truck that isn’t ate up, and also isn’t so nice that the asking price is damned near as expensive as a new one. Kind of a tall order, I know..
If you have an shark fin, your wheels can be remote shutdown! If you cover the fin with an form fitted lead sheet you are good to go but your gps and sat radio doesn’t function. Small price to pay for Freedom! I’ve tested this and it works well, I am unable to contact On Star.
New Work trucks started bricking a couple years ago and as soon as toed to town worked fine.
Turns out the computer on board stores all the diagnostic info, gps data and driving details. The plant is remote, when the onboard drive fills up and the trucks can’t get access to the rogers cell network they stop running. Now we have to have a worker drive each truck 50km from the plant to a hilltop so it can upload once a month.
I will never buy a spy truck.
That’s some real bullshit. The manufacturer should be required to pay you (or the company that owns the trucks, at any rate) reimbursement for the wasted time staff has to spend driving trucks into network range on account of their piss poor design.
Feature not a bug
“I never intend to buy a post-2010 car again.”
Why am I ALWAYS ten years ahead of EVERY protest that comes down the pike.